Thursday, May 17, 2012
Sunday, November 27, 2011
I designed this sweater in Universal Yarn's Cobblestone, a wonderful sport-weight superwash wool that features a variegated strand plied with a solid strand. I produced four garments from this sproingy yarn using different techniques of colorwork and texture.
This sweater gets its name from the Greek meander running up around the collar and cuffs in purl stitches. A similar intarsia meander goes up the center and under the arms. Meanders symbolize friendship, love and devotion, and eternity. I used a method of working intarsia in the round which is really easy to learn.
The pattern is sized for Child's 6 through Men's XL. If your body shape requires breast darts, you can incorporate them into the Meandros Sweater.
Before you start knitting your sweater, measure the desired distance from the back nape of the neck to the bottom of the sweater. Then measure down the front, from where the shoulder joins the neck to where you want the sweater to end. Subtract the first measurement from the second. Then round down to the nearest multiple of 1.5. If you get a whole number, start the instructions as written.
24" (front length)
- 20" (back length)
4" rounded down to 3"
If you get an answer like 1.5 or 4.5, you will have to reverse the numbers of stitches for the yarn colors for the Front piece. For example, to make the largest size, you would start the Back as written but for the Front you would provisionally cast on 83 stitches in C and 76 in D (still in that order). Purl 73, place a stitch marker, then purl 3 in D and 10 in C, and place another marker. Work in stockinette in the established colors for 10 more rows. Then work Chart 1 starting at row 14.
The number 1.5 is taken from the row gauge. If you are knitting to a different row gauge than prescribed, divide 13 (the number of rows in half a chart repeat) by your number of rows per inch, and round it to a workable number. Divide the difference between your front and back measurements by this number. Round the number down to the nearest whole number. If that number is even, start the sweater as instructed. If it's odd, use the above directions.
Knit both Back and Front pieces of the Upper Body 2 inches longer than directed for the size you want. For example, for the largest size, you would knit the back to 13" and the front to 10" before working collar shaping.
Measure the horizontal distance between your nipples, or "bust points." Add an ease factor of 2 inches to keep the darts from looking pointy. This will be the flat area between the darts. If the distance between your bust points is 8", you would want to have 10" between darts.
8 + 2 = 10
Divide the sweater chest circumference by 2 to get a front width. If we are making the largest size, that would be 57 divided by 2 = 28.5
Subtract the between-dart measurement from the front width:
28.5 - 10 = 18.5
and divide by 2 to find the available dart width on each side.
18.5 /2 = 9.25
Multiply this number by your stitch gauge. The prescribed gauge is 5.75 sts/in.
9.25 x 5.75 = about 53
In this case, there are 53 stitches on each side to work the darts.
Go back to the rounded-down difference between your front and back length measurements and divide it by 1.5
3 / 1.5 = 2
Multiply your answer by 13
2 x 13 = 26
and divide by 2 for the number of short-row turnarounds needed.
26 / 2 = 13
Our sweater has 53 stitches available for each dart, and we need to make 13 turnarounds.
53 / 13 = about 4
When we get to knitting the Lower Body, we knit the front stitches in the color of the cast-on stitches off the extra circular needle (being sure to knit through the right-hand loops so as not to twist the stitches), stopping at the underarm. Our front garment measurement included 7 underarm stitches (3.5 on each side) to be picked up later. This is not a problem.
Total front stitches: 159 (83 of one color + 76 of the other)
10" between darts x 5.75 stitch gauge = about 57 stitches
159 total front stitches - 57 center front stitches = 102 side stitches divided by 2 sides =
51 stitches on each side
Purl across one side and the center front in pattern (in this case 57 + 51 to equal 108), then wrap and turn.
Knit across center front only (57 stitches) in pattern, wrap and turn.
Purl back across center front plus 4 (see above: 53 / 13 = 4) for a total of 61 stitches in this case, always maintaining pattern and hiding the wrap, wrap and turn.
Continue in pattern and hiding wraps, in this case adding 4 each time for 13 turnarounds (26 passes).
The last pass should be a knit row. Pick up 7 underarm stitches, knit the Back stitches without twisting, pick up the last 7 underarm stitches, turn your work, and continue from the second paragraph of Lower Body.
This may seem confusing, but you can do it all with a calculator once you know what numbers to put in. Please email me with specific questions at the address on your pattern. Any informations you can provide such as the measurements described above (front, back, and between bust points) and the exact stitch and row gauge you are using, will help. If you are not comfortable with short rows or intarsia, I suggest working a simpler pattern and then coming back to this one. Your reward will be a beautiful sweater and increased knitting mastery!
Thursday, September 29, 2011
Another pattern for sale!
This one features 10 kittens along the lines of the tiger cubs on Cole's shawl.
Isn't Claire a beautiful model?
The knitting is not hard at all. You only need to know how to knit and purl. The rest is explained in the pattern.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Friday, July 22, 2011
Yesterday, Cole and I went to rehearsal and came home with watermelons.
And two eggplants and five tomatoes. What's that? You only see four tomatoes in the picture? Hm . . . something must have happened to the other one. I hope it wasn't something sordid involving scrambled eggs and cheese.